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Chinese women were doing it for centuries. cultural appropriation ” after posting photographs on Twitter that featured her in a traditional Chinese qipao , or cheongsam. She advises for the Wall Street Journal’s magazine, Noted, and is a guest editor for The Guardian US 2020 Climate Change issue. For example, calendars often featured Chinese girls wearing elegant cheongsams while smoking cigarettes or holding bottles of Coca-Cola. ", Keziah Daum, an 18-year-old high school senior, was looking for a dress to wear to her senior prom and found one at her local vintage store, Decades, in Salt Lake City, Utah. "I was looking for a dress that was going to be modest in the neckline but also unique," she says. Slapping on a bindi to complete your look at a desert music festival crosses the line into appropriation. It can be done right, but it's usually done very, very wrong. The cheongsam’s evolution from the baggier Manchu dress to the current form-fitting style can be attributed to the 1920s “natural curves” movement, where feminists advocated for celebrating women’s natural bodies. For example, after starring in the 1960 film, In 2018, then 18-year-old Utah native Keziah Daum, who has no Asian heritage, tweeted prom pictures where she was wearing a red qipao, also known as a cheongsam, that she had purchased from a local thrift store. The Manchus, a nomadic group that lived north of China, began ruling the majority Han-Chinese population in 1644. Like slicking down our edges. Some people took to Weibo, a China-based blogging platform, to write that Daum looked beautiful. This Student Says Her Qipao Prom Dress Is Being Called Out for Cultural Appropriation. In 2018, a Caucasian high school student in Utah wore a qipao to her prom and posted photos online that caused an uproar in the U.S for cultural appropriation. Posters against cultural appropriation made by students at Ohio University. Under the Eight Banner system, which was a tiered system of officials and armies, Han males were mandated to wear Manchu styles—especially if they held positions of authority. Beyoncé in a cliché-ridden Coldplay video) is different than appreciation (wearing a traditional sari at your South Asian friend’s wedding at their request). Most everything African Americans do has been appropriated from another culture yet we out here lying that we started everything. "I, in no way, was trying to be racist or show cultural appropriation. The politics of cultural appropriation get more complicated when you're mixed-race, like me By Gina Mei Jan 26, 2016, 10:00am EST Share this story Therefore, the problematic aspects of the West’s appropriation of the cheongsam include the hyper-sexualization of the cheongsam, the insufficient acknowledgment of its historical significance, and the lack of models of Asian descent. None of the models were of Asian descent, yet the association of Asia with  appropriations of the cheongsam forwarded the stereotype of sexualized Asian women. TAIPEI (NYTIMES) – When Keziah Daum wore a Chinese-style dress to her high school promin Utah, it set off an uproar – but not because of its tight fit or thigh-high slit. Cheongsam: Then and Now. For centuries, these individuals had been misunderstood, not least of all by Perry, and had, long before American music merited awards, been appropriated to symbolize any number of equally misunderstood tropes and … Just wear the Chinese longdress and disregard this ‘cultural appropriation’ meme. [8] Nicki Minaj, “Nicki Minaj – Chun-Li (Live on SNL / 2018),” Youtube, May 20, 2018,video, 3:28, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2in8XqiElwc. Cultural appropriation (i.e. while wearing a cheongsam-inspired outfit and chopsticks in her hair. In fast fashion, cultural appropriation is even more rampant — kimono here, cheongsam there. We love to take that fashion into our daily life, and show it off around on the streets. Every time I saw an argument kimono or other similar garments would be “cultural appropriation”, it referred to 19th century orientalism (involving the erotization, fetishization of Asian woman due to a perception of submissiveness). The effects of the hybridization of Western and Chinese cultures that occurred during this time include cheongsams being paired with Western-style jewelry and shoes, which were often worn in Shanghai and portrayed in Western films. We are at a point where fashion world is at its peak, the relation we have with the industry is fierce. https://t.co/mrjcPK1vhC. Women who donned the cheongsam heralded the feminist ideals of equality and represented a world where women could perform the same jobs and assume the same societal roles that men had. 20 Gorgeous Prom Dresses You Can Actually Wear Again, Teen Goes Viral for Sharing Her Prom Dress, Kim K. Accused of Appropriation For Her Braids, People Are Accusing Khloé Kardashian of Cultural Appropriation for Wearing Bantu Knots. Daum had failed to acknowledge the cheongsam’s history, which is steeped in early Chinese feminism and botched Westernization.[2]. [10] Jenny Zhang, “Blonde Girls in Cheongsams,” Racked, March 17, 2016, https://www.racked.com/2016/3/17/11246698/shoplifting-malls-nineties-cultural-appropriation. by USCNPM Staff. May 2, 2018 11:19 AM EDT. The row over a non-Chinese student wearing a cheongsam is not just about being politically correct. After the XinHai Revolution of 1911, the Republic of China was established and Chinese women’s fashion began reflecting the ideals of feminism. [6] Instead of the cut being a high slit, the outfit is bastardized into two loosely connected pieces of cloth that expose both of her legs up to the hip. The beauty standards that you are bombarded with have different coloured hair, eyes and skin to you. I saw that dress, and I was like, ‘OK, this is the dress.’", But what she chose, a bright, traditional Chinese qipao (or cheongsam) dress, sparked an online debate when she tweeted the photos on April 22, the day after her big night, with the caption "PROM.". By Mekita Riva s. April 30, 2018 ... (it’s also known as a cheongsam A Utah teen is defending her decision to wear a traditional Chinese dress to her prom in the wake of cultural appropriation criticism. ", Khloé Channels 'Avatar' Character in Jumpsuit, These Razors Will Leave Your Skin Soooo Smooth, Cassie Speaks Out After Colton Comes Out As Gay. In 1929, in an effort to reclaim the cheongsam as “new culture attire,” the Republic of China designated an ankle-length cheongsam as the national dress, thus increasing its popularity as a Chinese garment. A high school senior is refusing to apologize after wearing a “beautiful” Chinese cheongsam to her prom. Promise. June 22, 2018 June 23, 2018 Nazish. Twitter user Jeremy Lam responded hotly “My culture is not your goddamn prom dress,” a tweet that has been retweeted over 20,000 times, opening a huge debate on cultural appreciation vs appropriation. As in a teenager wearing a cheongsam (qipao) to prom … Many users came out in support of Daum, while others quickly denounced her dress as cultural appropriation. We are at a point where fashion world is at its peak, the relation we have with the industry is fierce. A high school senior is refusing to apologize after wearing a “beautiful” Chinese cheongsam to her prom. A high school girl, visually white and American (particularly not Asian of any sort), recently decided to wear a cheongsam, or qipao – a traditional Chinese dress – to her prom. However, a brief look at the history of the cheongsam quickly illustrates the problems of “cultural appropriation” politics. She studies at Northwestern University, where she is pursuing a double major in Journalism and International Studies with a minor in Economics. Even though the exhibit was curated for a Western audience, the mystification of China through a Western lens fails to recognize that Chinese culture exists outside of a eurocentric perspective. I'm Cosmopolitan's Associate Fashion Editor and write about any and all trends, major celeb fashion moments, and why wide-leg jeans are basically the best. Some accused the 18-year-old Utah resident of cultural appropriation while others praised her for promoting Chinese culture. [4] “Chinese American Heroine: Nancy Kwan,” AsianWeek (San Francisco) May 4, 2009, archived from the original on June 29, 2011. We are at a point where fashion world is at its peak, the relation we have with the industry is fierce. [3] Adrienne Cox, “The QiPao: Defining Modern Women in the first Half of the 20th Century,” (Undergraduate honors thesis, Kansas University, 2019). She wore a traditional Chinese dress. Calendar advertisements, which were an accurate reflection of the popular styles of the era, showcased Chinese models sporting cheongsams with these modernizations. [6] Instead of the cut being a high slit, the outfit is bastardized into two loosely connected pieces of cloth that expose both of her legs up to the hip. Is cultural appropriation inherent in a non-Chinese person wearing Chinese-style apparel? The Cheongsam and Cultural Appropriation Twitter was lit up with chatter this week when Keziah Daum, 18-year-old girl from Utah had the gall to wear a cheongsam, a Chinese dress, to her prom. We love to take that fashion into our daily life, and show it off around on the streets. Some people accused the 18-year-old of "cultural appropriation", ... I’m not deleting my post because I’ve done nothing but show my love for the culture." She was wearing a red qi pao (or cheongsam), a traditional Chinese dress popularized in China in the 1920s. So this was what was happening to my culture alongside with cultural appropriation. All rights reserved. You may be able to find the same content in another format, or you may be able to find more information, at their web site. We didn't start this. "I would buy others like it, because I think it’s a beautiful piece of clothing. The cultural appropriation debate has flared after an American teenager wore a qipao, a Chinese-style dress, to her prom. If that’s not cultural appropriation, it should not be an issue for an American to wear a qipao to the prom either. [5] Pete Martin, “Backstage with Nancy Kwan,”, Hastings, “The Kickass Legacy of Chun-Li, the First Playable Woman in ‘Street Fighter,”, https://www.vice.com/en_us/article/435aew/chun-li-street-fighter-history-video-games, [7] Obi Anyanwu, “25 Video Game Characters That Deserve a Spinoff,”, https://www.complex.com/pop-culture/2013/01/25-video-game-characters-that-deserve-a-spinoff/chun-li. 'It's just a dress': US teen sparks cultural appropriation debate after wearing cheongsam to prom An 18-year-old teenager's prom dress sparked an online debate about cultural appropriation. Photo: Students Teaching Against Racism in Society, via Facebook. Start Reading . From Cultural Revolution to cultural appropriation: a brief history of that dress This week the social media mob went after a teenager from Salt Lake City called Keziah Daum. Chun-Li, who debuted in 1999 and was referenced by. The introduction of the cheongsam to the West occurred through trading ports like Shanghai and was popularized in movies and advertisements. cultural appropriation ” after posting photographs on Twitter that featured her in a traditional Chinese qipao , or cheongsam. As the first playable female character in the fighting game, Chun-Li’s debut was complicated. We love to take that fashion into our daily life, and show it off around on the streets. magazine as “arguably the most popular female video character ever created,”[7] has seen multiple renditions in present-day media. A high school student was accused of cultural appropriation after posting photos of her prom dress on social media. The 90s have been back in fashion for a while, but now that the problematic elements are trickling in, there's a lot of cultural appropriation to unpack and avoid in this current iteration. Photograph of Han Chinese women wearing traditional clothing with Manchu influences, 19th century. One Utah teenager's prom dress has sparked a heated debate on the controversial issue of cultural appropriation.. Keziah Daum, an 18-year-old senior at Woods Cross High School, Utah, received backlash after she posted photos of her dressed in a red qipao, a … Keziah, 18, posted photos of herself wearing a traditional Chinese cheongsam… Go ahead, appropriate my culture So in this case, no, I don't think there is any cultural appropriation going on, because in this case, the qipao isn't really culture, so much as it is just a specific style of retro clothing. “Culture has no borders," wrote one user. [9] YSL’s Fall 1977 collection, Although the cheongsam has been embraced by iconic women such as Grace Kelly and Kate Moss, the lack of Asian models profiting from Asian-inspired outfits contributes to America’s history of exploiting minority cultures. Like Minaj’s song’s namesake, instead of her cheongsam being one piece of cloth, it was short with a rectangular covering that was further sexualized through the use of latex rather than traditional silk. Beyoncé in a cliché-ridden Coldplay video) is different than appreciation (wearing a traditional sari at your South Asian friend’s wedding at their request). An icon of Chinese fashion in today’s world, the cheongsam actually has a history that has it’s roots in globalization and the emergence of feminism in China in the early 1900s. Chinese cultural treasures are worth spreading all over the world.”. [1] The Twitter community erupted into a fervor over whether her donning the form-fitting dress, which has come to be synonymous with Chinese culture, was cultural appropriation or appreciation. Although this doesn’t erase its distortion through westernization, it is a step against the sexualization of the cheongsam. [7] Obi Anyanwu, “25 Video Game Characters That Deserve a Spinoff,” Complex, January 02, 2013, https://www.complex.com/pop-culture/2013/01/25-video-game-characters-that-deserve-a-spinoff/chun-li. Although there are three main theories about the cheongsam’s origin, the most popular originates from the Qing Dynasty, which started in 1644 and lasted until 1912. Headdress and Cheongsam Cultural Appropriation. cultural appropriation | 221.7M people have watched this. April 19, 2020. https://www.tiktok.com/@nanababbbyyy/video/6817555814669110533?lang=en. It was, in fact, cultural appreciation. By Mekita Riva s. April 30, 2018 ... (it’s also known as a cheongsam "I’ve always admired the beauty and uniqueness of the Chinese dresses, so I went to that section. The Cheongsam and Cultural Appropriation Twitter was lit up with chatter this week when Keziah Daum, 18-year-old girl from Utah had the gall to wear a cheongsam, a Chinese dress, to her prom. She wore a traditional Chinese dress. https://fashionandrace.org/database/the-wests-appropriation-of-the-cheongsam We may earn commission from links on this page, but we only recommend products we love. Cultural Appropriation . "There is no problem, as long as there is no malice or deliberate maligning. Although the cheongsam has been embraced by iconic women such as Grace Kelly and Kate Moss, the lack of Asian models profiting from Asian-inspired outfits contributes to America’s history of exploiting minority cultures. Currently, the cheongsam is being reclaimed by TikTok creators participating in a trend called “What Asian Are You?”[11] Using an audio loop created by “Yoleendadong,” users with Chinese heritage have started to reeducate others by dressing in cheongsams and filming videos where they explain its cultural significance. Concern over this appropriation is expressed in Jenny Zhang’s 2016 article for, , entitled “Blonde Girls in Cheongsams.” In this article, Zhang details the fascination she had growing up in America and watching white models wear her culture’s clothing. June 22, 2018 June 23, 2018 Nazish. During its integration into Chinese society, the Manchu cheongsam adopted parts of Chinese fashion, including auspicious colors such as red or gold and symbols such as the dragon.[3]. [10], [1] Louise Moon, “Chinese Dress at US Prom Wins Support in China after Backlash,”, https://www.scmp.com/news/china/society/article/2144207/qipao-us-prom-wins-support-china-after-internet-backlash, [2] Samantha Schmidt, “’It’s Just a Dress’: Teen’s Chinese Prom Attire Stirs Cultural Appropriation Debate,”, https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/morning-mix/wp/2018/05/01/its-just-a-dress-teens-chinese-prom-attire-stirs-cultural-appropriation-debate/, [4] “Chinese American Heroine: Nancy Kwan,”. Image via N509FZ ( CC BY-SA 4.0 ) Little Mix’s post has received massive … By Chantal Fernandez. Girl Slammed on Twitter for Culturally Appropriating Her Prom Dress Says She Would Wear it Again. Figures such as Soon Ching-ling, who was President Sun Yat-Sen’s wife, publicly wore the cheongsam and advocated for the use of Chinese silk when creating the dress, thus solidifying the political nature of the dress as a nationalist icon. In Spring of 2018, a white Utah teenager named Keziah Daum posted photos of herself and her prom date on Facebook and Twitter. Yes it is and she should be called out on it! [8] Nicki Minaj, “Nicki Minaj – Chun-Li (Live on SNL / 2018),” Youtube, May 20, 2018,video, 3:28, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2in8XqiElwc, [9] Vivienne Chow, “Yves Saint Laurent’s China Fantasies Gave the Fashion World Its Most Daring Designs,”, https://qz.com/quartzy/1403323/yves-saint-laurents-china-fantasies-gave-the-fashion-world-its-most-daring-designs/, [10] Jenny Zhang, “Blonde Girls in Cheongsams,”, https://www.racked.com/2016/3/17/11246698/shoplifting-malls-nineties-cultural-appropriation. A high school student was accused of cultural appropriation after posting photos of her prom dress on social media. Additionally, in Tom Ford’s final collection for Yves Saint Laurent in Fall 2004, he presented ornate versions of the cheongsam—using silks that had high slits and vibrant colors—that were modeled by all white models. Twitter users quickly responded that her decision to wear the dress was an example of cultural appropriation. Daum was originally bashed by twitter user Jeremy Lam for her choice of outfit. Focusing on the cheongsam, what makes it stand out as a representation of the Chinese identity is the collar and the buttons, and despite it having had many variations throughout history, the top part of the cheongsam (the collar and button design) has always remained the same because it preserved the cultural identity of the garment. So this was what was happening to my culture alongside with cultural appropriation. As the first playable female character in the fighting game, Chun-Li’s debut was complicated. Recently he made my grandmother a beautiful green cheongsam for a wedding. But the meanings around the dress are complicated. Slapping on a bindi to complete your look at a desert music festival crosses the line into appropriation. "I learned that there’s always people who are going to hate and I can’t control that.". Recently he made my grandmother a beautiful green cheongsam for a wedding. Some people accused the 18-year-old of "cultural appropriation", ... I’m not deleting my post because I’ve done nothing but show my love for the culture." In 2015, The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute exhibited, Further back in history, in a 1978 interview with. In popular culture, the video game Street Fighter features a character named Chun-Li, who wears a hyper-sexualized version of the cheongsam. Cultural appropriation (i.e. The cheongsam was originally a baggy robe-type dress worn by women of the Manchu. Watch short videos about #culturalappropriation on TikTok. For example, if you dressed up like this, I don't think anyone would even really think about cultural appropriation, they would just think you looked good. Twitter user Jeremy Lam responded hotly “My culture is not your goddamn prom dress,” a tweet that has been retweeted over 20,000 times, opening a huge debate on cultural appreciation vs appropriation. Like Minaj’s song’s namesake, instead of her cheongsam being one piece of cloth, it was short with a rectangular covering that was further sexualized through the use of latex rather than traditional silk. Is cultural appropriation inherent in a non-Chinese person wearing Chinese-style apparel? And while Twitter is in an uproar about her prom dress choice, some people in China are supporting her decision. Imagine that you grew up in a place where you look different to everyone else except your mother. Gift Ideas for Men B/c Shoppin' Is Tough, These Trendy Chunky, Colorful Rings Have Arrived. Her sexualization begs the question of whether Chun-Li is similar to early Chinese feminists who donned the cheongsam as a way to own their femininity while simultaneously claiming power. [9] Vivienne Chow, “Yves Saint Laurent’s China Fantasies Gave the Fashion World Its Most Daring Designs,” Quartz, December 12, 2018, https://qz.com/quartzy/1403323/yves-saint-laurents-china-fantasies-gave-the-fashion-world-its-most-daring-designs/. In 2015, The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute exhibited, China: Through the Looking Glass, which displayed fashion pieces from several Chinese dynasties on the same level as outfits produced by Western designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano, both who had previously produced collections with Asian inspirations. © 2020-2021 The Fashion and Race Database™. After photos of … (San Francisco) May 4, 2009, archived from the original on June 29, 2011. "I, in no way, was trying to be racist or show cultural appropriation. This Student Says Her Qipao Prom Dress Is Being Called Out for Cultural Appropriation. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io, The Most Iconic Shoe Moments in Movie History, Sweet Gifts for Pregnant Women This Mother's Day, These Cottagecore Fashion Brands Are SO Dreamy, Found: 37 Cool Father’s Day Gifts for the Husband, 40 Captions That’ll Go Perfectly With Your #OOTD, If You're Curious, These Shoe Brands Are Le Best, 68 (!!) Her 'crime' was to wear a Chinese-style dress called a cheongsam (or qipao)… BY Peter Franklin Just wear the Chinese longdress and disregard this ‘cultural appropriation’ meme. Tackling cultural appropriation is a serious issue, but it can be taken too far. , Yves Saint-Laurent, who admittedly visited China after designing a collection that was inspired by it, said that keeping a distance from China allowed him to roam free in his imagination and recreate the image of the country through his fashion. Her 'crime' was to wear a Chinese-style dress called a cheongsam (or qipao)…. In 2018, a Caucasian high school student in Utah wore a qipao to her prom and posted photos online that caused an uproar in the U.S for cultural appropriation. We love to take that fashion into our daily life, and show it off around on the streets. After all, you’re one-quarter Chinese, so it’s not exactly cultural appropriation insofar as you’re concerned. Tackling cultural appropriation is a serious issue, but it can be taken too far. The style then began to merge with Western culture over the decades; it became shorter, featuring slits and tapered waists, evolving into the tight-fitting style that's well-known today. It was, in fact, cultural appreciation.". 'It's just a dress': US teen sparks cultural appropriation debate after wearing cheongsam to prom An 18-year-old teenager's prom dress sparked an online debate about cultural appropriation. We are at a point where fashion world is at its peak, the relation we have with the industry is fierce. ... Cheongsam FAQs (for those without Chinese ancestry) One user found the images she posted and wrote a response that went viral, and Daum's photos found their way into a Twitter Moment. A red cheongsam on display at the Shanghai Hongqiao Railway Station (2018). Zara Called Out for Cultural Appropriation, This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. "At first, I felt bullied, but my mom helped toughen me up, and I began to realize how many people there were who were supporting me in my decision and encouraging me," Daum says. This YSL collection represents an exotic understanding of Chinese culture that pulls from its most distilled parts such as auspicious colors, icons, and fabrics and reimagines them for a Western audience.

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